My first Lace AND my first Couture project is finished!

eyelet frontRemember way back in February the Muslin with the side zip that wouldn’t pose? The result is all finished!

eyelet back

What a relief! I wanted to finish it up before our trip but I set it aside to clean the house since my Mother-in-Law was threatening to come back to Rio in our car. All I had left was the hand stitched hem and seam finishing on the side seam.

eyelet side

I am so happy my toile provided such a great fit (New Look 6515 OOP for the pattern info). This is an embroidered cotton eyelet and it is unlined! Oh LA LA! All those little white polka dots are my skin and a flesh-toned bra. In her couture course on, Susan Khalji mentioned a lace jacket that someone was making and her flesh toned seam binding lace finishing technique.

CB back with bindingHere’s a close up of the inside. Using a wide flesh colored bias seam binding, I covered as much of the S.A. as possible. I could have cut them a bit, but I was worried about stitching beyond the seam into the top itself, so I left it. This binding “erases” the fabric that would show through the holes, leaving you with this view on the right side. No promises that this is exactly what Susan meant since it was a comment she made, not a tutorial with pictures!

CB front with binding

It is like magic! I loved this technique and I loved making this quasi-lace top. This is my first lace project and I know it will not be my last!

That being said, there are some wonky bits. I feel they all stem from one main problem: HEAT. I prewashed this fabric here in Brazil. The only hot water in my house is in a small tank for the shower. No hot water prewash in the laundry. I also have no clothes dryer (not a complaint). That meant that the first time this cute embroidered eyelet cotton felt steamy heat was under the iron, during construction. It rippled. The fabric shrank some and the embroidery did not. It is not too noticeable but it really irritates me since I did all the various couture steps, except underlining and lining of course. I finished and tweaked everything to make it as polished as possible and the one step I didn’t do was give the entire fabric a nice steamy press before laying out the pattern. By the time I realized my mistake, it was too late. Irritating, right?

Oh well, no one but the “trained eye” will notice. All my husband noticed, besides the “wow”, were the sleeves puffing up. He doesn’t like them and thinks I should switch them out for “something different or longer.” I feel like the material isn’t laying as well as I would like, but I have shoulders and he can just deal. I am not pulling it apart and potentially damaging something. Honestly, I kind of agree, but I thought it was the muslin fabric being heavy, rather than that my shoulders were more than the sleeve could accommodate.

Total Time: Started the end of January, worked around my “fast” projects, and finished today.

Overall, I love this top and the fact that I had a chance to test out Susan’s lace technique and practice some of the others from the course. I have a beautiful red cotton/silk satin that I want to make in this pattern as well so I’ll have another chance to get the sleeves right, if I don’t change it up a little. I really like Julia Bobbin’s Rose Sleeve.

4 thoughts on “My first Lace AND my first Couture project is finished!

  1. You have to stop typing “here in Brazil” because it makes me very jealous :). Very cute top.

    I would suggest if you make this again that you consider a sway back adjustment because you are getting some pooling of the fabric at the back waist.Of course, this could just be the photos – I know how difficult it is getting photos of garments. Treena of has written a bazillion posts about her own sway back adjustments.

    Using the flesh coloured seam binding to cover any seam allowance that might show through the eyelets is brilliant – it is definitely like magic.

    1. thank you for the tip! I am reading up on her adjustment and will have to look at my back a little closer. I think you are right. I assumed it was just resting on my rear, but your idea seems more spot on. I’ll keep tinkering since this pattern is a classic style that flatters my pear shape so its not going to collect dust! =) Sorry for the jealousy but I will say the fact that you are in the same country as Linton Tweeds, Seville Row, and the Great British Sewing Bee, I get jealous sometimes too =D

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