This pattern really requires precision. While princess seams to the shoulder seam make shoulder adjustments easier, it leaves a 4 square on top of the shoulder. If you are short like me, everyone can see if it doesn’t match up.
Lots of curved seams with tricky match points like the waist yoke seams (CB back here across the invisible zip)
and the side seams at the top and bottom of the yoke:
I used a navy stretch cotton poplin with a blackberry Bemburg rayon lining and a navy invisible zipper. I used a simple diamond fancy stitch for the top stitching on the seams.
Alas, between the stretch, the unevenness of the seams with clips and pinking, and no stabilizer, the stitching does not lay flat nor does the fabric. I noticed it, but when I started seam ripping, I realized it marked up the fabric too much to hide. At that point, I had to decide to wad it (as I had no more to recut skirt panels) or forge ahead. I chose to finish and hope for the best. At this even ironing isn’t going to get the lumps to lay flat. Le sigh…
Pro Tip: I did ask the Huskevarna ladies about it. They basically said, even with stabilizer trying to use a decorative stitch is not appropriate as the top stitch is a functional stitch that holds seam allowances in place. She suggested the reinforced top stitch as a better choice than a simple straight stitch, but never use embroidery stitches on princess seams. She suggested I play with embroidery around hems and in panels, but never in place of functional stitches or over uneven areas as the tension won’t stay even over lumps, bumps, or curves.
As for the pattern’s directions, I found the directions on how to go about lining this dress very confusing. I understand the theory of lining so that the neckline and armholes are finished without top stitching, but executing it with Vogue’s directions was more than I could muster. Therefore I did it in two steps.
First, I stitched up the lining as I did the fashion fabric omitting the top stitching. Then, I stitched the lining to the dress at the neckline. I used pinking shears to neaten the raw edges/grade. Then, its a quick clip, flip, and press. That left the neckline smooth.
To finish the armholes, I basted the raw edges wrong sides together, and used navy bias binding to finish it. It also required pinking, grading, and lots of curve clipping before pressing. Then I just hand stitched it to the lining, so it doesn’t show on the fashion fabric.
Now I’m finishing it according to the pattern for tacking the lining around the zipper with yoke seams aligned, hemming, and the back slit, which looks strange in the directions.
One of the producers of all the hair on my dress, Finn, wanted to get involved in this project.
I adopted two brothers. I can’t believe how much crazy two adolescent kittens can bring into one family!