I think Burda should hire a proper tailor. Or buy some push-up bras and stuffing. Okay, pop quiz time!
Are these jackets from Burda’s December 2013 issue fitting this starving young lady well?
The answer is NO! The fabric on the Chanel-esque jacket is collapsing where her curves should be. The red jacket has entirely too much fabric coming off that shoulder to fit her non-bust. Why would they sacrifice fit to have a super skinny model? She is not selling these tailored patterns at all.
I understand they want the “fashion magazine” look, but when it isn’t selling their product, it seems stupid. Agreed? I spend so much time fitting a piece for myself, I would expect a sewing pattern company to make the same amount of effort when making samples. Look at the Indie companies like Colette or Victory. Other issues of Burda. Vogue and Butterick photograph their pieces well even though their patterns are weirdly drafted. If this was in Vogue Patterns, they would have her doing an odd or avant guarde pose to hide the poor fit. Burda chose to take these shots head on flaunting this improperly fitted bust. I just saw these posted on burdastyle.com and I wanted to slap someone. Maybe they thought we would be so distracted by her digitally enhanced cheek bones, we would never notice.
The time has come! We are moving into our very own townhouse! Today! That being said, I started moving the breakables yesterday, including my sewing machine and serger! I feel like I am coming out of the desert into the promise land.
I had the enjoyable experience of reuniting with my stash that we left in storage years ago. I didn’t think much about it then, but now I realize how much I gutted it before I left. I donated a decade’s worth of accumulation to the charity store: patterns, fabric, notions, trim. I kept my Vogue Magazines, but the first issue I found from Nov. 2011 (above) was damaged because the box glue stopped sticking and the contents of said box spilled, upending the entire stack. I wonder, if a box falls and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?
I haven’t found my fabric, but I know I am going to regret parting with some of it. I remember once I stumbled across a Jo-Anns that was going out of business and I cleaned out over 100 yards of fabric for less than $50. I never had to shop for formal wear or costume fabric again. However, I didn’t feel right storing so much (My entire spare room was a sewing room. I was so spoiled and didn’t even appreciate it!). Therefore to reduce storing expenses, I did it. I remember parting with all that polyester thinking it was the better choice as the other fabrics were too nice to give up. I hope I remember correctly and that the fabrics I’ve been dreaming about are still in my possession.
Anyway, a friend is coming today so we can catch up and unpack! I have already found part of my yarn stash and presented her with cashmere/silk yarn, Debbie bliss eco cotton, etc. I think she has about 20 skeins including a hand dyed wool blend sock yarn that a dyer made for me after we met during my travels. I just know that with a job and family, my crafting time will be limited. If I have to choose between sewing or knitting/crochet, the sewing wins every time!
Once we get settled and I find everything, I will be posting my completed projects. As you can imagine, I did absolutely no sewing since I’ve been here. My friend’s house was already full of her stuff so my sewing machine and whatnot had to stay in storage. I bet most of you already guessed that with my overambitious plans, but I was really hoping. My new goal is to spend the next few weeks unpacking like a mad woman around holiday commitments so that by December I can sew! I even planned a dinner party the first week of December to keep me motivated. I know it’s an addiction but admitting it doesn’t stop it!
The first issue of the US Burda Style hit newstands awhile ago, but I finally went into the large bookstore today and flipped through the issue. It has some good qualities, but I was mostly disappointed.
The issue contains the usual pattern sheets with patterns, but the pattern selection is rather odd. They have patterns from older issues like the popular neons from 08/2012 and the black and white plus size pattern collection from 03/2013. It seems odd that they didn’t pull from current issues.
On the plus side, the pattern sheets are less crowded than the traditional ones. However upon closer inspection, the reason it has fewer patterns is because many of the issue’s patterns are only available via downloads with the issue’s code on burdastyle. com. That annoys me because I prefer tracing to taping together all those sheets of paper. It is one of the reasons why I like buying the magazine even if I only use one or two patterns in the issue.
The overall content is still 4 “collections” with a few DIY articles and fashion stuff. It feels like the “cutting edge” portion of the fashion is missing. The page with all the pattern fashion mini-photos is missing too.
The final plus is that the subscription is only $20 for four issues with the included subscription card. That is a huge savings compared to the $100+ for a montly subscription. For someone with less time to sew and/or maybe not as interested in owning the entire “collection” offered by Burda, the savings would be appealing.
Overall, this magazine would entice new readers and newer seamstresses with the easier to read pattern pages and lower price. It should attract a broader audience with its availability at chains like Barnes & Noble. It will also draw them to the website with the included downloadable patterns. On the other hand, people already familiar with Burda would most likely find it an inferior version of the monthly magazine.
When I get settled, I plan to subscribe to only one version as the quarterly version is simply a repackaging of stuff from the monthly subscription and I really like having all the options available for tracing. Which version are you going to choose?
Really T? When you are moving at the beginning of the month?
Well dear reader, one fun thing about this move is: I’m not taking my sewing machine! GASP! And that is because, I have this beauty waiting for me:
Isn’t she pretty? Or is it a he because it has a computer? And no, I didn’t just buy it. Can you believe I bought this several years ago? Its been waiting for me in the USA because I couldn’t get it on the airplane as carry on and checking it with the computer module wasn’t happening. On top of that international shipping seemed silly since we were planning on permanently relocating to the USA “soon.” Years later, my dusty box is waiting for me, which means finding it and unpacking it, is really a visit and a return trip home. Easy peasy! As for fabric and stuff, I’m only moving what can fit in my suitcases, so my shrinking stash busting sewing has made that far more managable. I’m not buying anything new either because moving it would be crazy. I’m mostly taking finished items, tools and patterns.
Which means I’ve been drooling on the US fabric websites like a mad woman!
Here are some ideas I’ve got brewing:
This jacket is designed for a lighter weight fabric, has a slightly different band, and poofy pockets, but its essentially the same jacket as the Plaid Jacket they’ve picked for the new Burda Style Sew-a-long in October. I have this lovely copper silk noil I picked up during my jacket class. Cynthia G. recommended the color as a “wear with everything” jacket fabric because it matches my eyes. (Her tip being match either your eyes or your hair color for a jacket that you can wear everyday.) Of course at the time we were talking tailored jackets, but now that I’ve been loving (and wearing out) my Laura cardigan, I understand and appreciate how a smart light layer and relaxed fit can really dress up jeans and a t-shirt. Therefore, I’m going to pair these two up and line it with the coordinating Bemberg Rayon I picked for it in peach.
I also love these satin PJ style pants. I think while I have the pattern tracing stuff out I’m going to trace off the pants. I missed Did you make that?‘s Pajama Party sew-a-long this year, and my ones from last year wore out. If I really like the fit/style, I have this scarlet red silk/cotton satin that might make fun wear around town pants with heels, but first PJs!
The other sew-a-long I’ve been looking forward to is the Monthly Stitich’s Frocktober Fest. I’ve been wanting to join in the fun over there, but just haven’t had the time. I plan to make the 02/2011/101 dress which I just fitted up in a purple cotton sateen. I have the bright orange/coral poplin with matching lace that is calling my name.
Of course, you’re probably wondering about my crazy list. I finished it all, except for the 02/2011 jacket blazer! I went to work on the collar only to find the un-interfaced collar band piece has disappeared. I’m half-way through the collar, the body is done and fitted, and the sleeves are done. It is so nice to do fusable tailoring for a stretch fabric because it goes so much faster than the couture techniques. So I figured while I’m waiting for an early morning time block when my son is sleeping and I can cut, I might as well prep a few patterns! Totally logical =)
I figure after finishing the blazer, I’ll have whipped up almost 15 pieces. I think I’ve earned a few casual and sleepwear pieces for day-to-day wear. Then I can get back to job stuff with the navy poplin or black linen or something. I’m not really inspired by my “career” fabrics right now. Probably a bit of burn out!
On a final fun note, a friend of mine wants to trade. She’s going to take photos for my blog and I’m going to help her with her etsy store photos. Awesome photos will be coming soon!
…it would have bit me! You know that feeling when you realize something that’s been staring you in the face? Take a look at this photo from the Burda 02/2011 Italian inspired collection:
Remember how much I said I loved this collection? Now look at this photo:
Notice anything? I was packing my albums and I noticed that I picked almost the same style lines, hair, etc. for my wedding day! A bustier top with beautiful fuller skirt? Check! Flowing brown hair half up and half down? Check! And the jewelry might have been more dramatic than I’m wearing, but this set of jewelry was borrowed from a friend and very sentimental. If not borrowed, I might have ended up with chunkier bling, as I do like that.
Now what woman doesn’t want to feel like a princess on her wedding day? And if she could bring that feeling into her every day looks? It would be perfect, right? So why didn’t I think of this sooner?!? Well, when I unpack after the move, it is something I can pursue as part of my silhouette project/signature style research.
So remember that list with 10 items for my work wardrobe? I finished 8! The white Burda blouse ended as a wadder/UFO due to weird directions and delicate fabric and my Deer and Doe Bluet needs buttons and buttonholes (BTW LOVE! I just had to let out the waist a bit and tweak the bust, but other than that it was a lovely pattern to work with!)
So what’s next? A job offer hopefully, but until then I am going to take some aspirin for my eye strain and keep sewing!
Here’s the next stage of my ridiculously ambitious plan for my last 3 weeks in Brazil:
Purple stretch cotton sateen (matte side out): Burda 02-2011-101 dress
My fingers are already not happy with the idea of another 6 projects, but I have 3 more planned if I have time. I just returned from my trip to Ipatinga, MG and they have the most amazing fabric store there. I found this beautiful bright coral stretch poplin that I would love to make up in a
dress. AND I found matching 20cm wide stretch lace! COLOR-MATCHED! They have the most amazing selection of bikini and lingerie hardware, supplies, and fabric there and I hit a sale. The lace cost a whopping R$5! LUCKY! And I bought 2m of stretch navy poplin too because those fabrics were on sale for R$9 a meter. The navy will be a work outfit while the coral is going to be part of my non-work stuff, so its at the bottom of the list. Maturity sucks sometimes. I managed to prep 3 patterns today and cut 2 garments even though it was a rainy day. My husband took charge of my son to help out. He’s probably not going to be able to work tomorrow because of the rain too, so I hope to cut out the 3 black twill pieces tomorrow. Pray for rain in Rio!
I know its been really quiet on my blogs, but in truth, my life has been a little crazy. I am moving to the United States and with that move comes a new job, old friends, and a new place to live. Things were very vague and tentative until about the middle of August. Now I have plane tickets!
With this change coming, I ran through my closet looking at potential interview and work outfits. I found a red sleeveless blouse and a pair of brown knit trousers. No interview outfits. Nothing else. Just a top and pants. And sleeveless isn’t really an office look without something. Maybe my gold Laura cardi but that thing is just about worn out, I’ve used it so much! So while my son was sleeping, I pulled out my entire stash, organizing and sorting as I went.
I tried to focus on patterns I’d worked with before like the Simplicity A-line skirt from my Silhouette project. That way I didn’t have to start from scratch. I cleared a few casual wear projects off my table before starting as well so I would have room to work. I’ll post about those eventually.
Here are definite projects as they’ve been cut out and are in various stages of construction:
purple cotton twill: button up blouse (Deer & Doe Bleuet shortened)
black medium weight knit: Jacket and skirt (V2989)
black linen: pencil skirt (Burda 08-2012-111)
shiny black knit: dress (Style Arc Anita lengthened)
black mystery sheer fabric: button up blouse (Burda 07-2010-121 without shoulder frills)
white cotton batiste: button up blouse (Burda 01-2011-102 with long sleeves from the dress version)
Leftover chunks of jersey in black, grey, purple and cream: color blocked camis (Burda 02-2011-102B with self-drafted band to lengthen)
I’m trying to finish all these projects up before our trip to my mother-in-law’s house. When I get back, I’ll have about 4 weeks to finish everything before the move. I plan to reuse some patterns a few more times like the A-line skirt and the pencil skirt. If the Bleuet shirt fits well, I have 3 other Deer and Doe patterns that I am so excited about trying. I just know my time is limited and repeats will speed up the process. The big thing on the list is an interview blazer or jacket in black, and considering the time and materials I have, that may not be doable. But if I reduce my spending for an entire work wardrobe to a few zippers and buttons, a pair of black pumps and stockings, then buying a nice blazer would be very doable.
At this point, all I am working with are solids, in black, gray, purple, and white, in classic shapes so there is no “signature style” but it will give me a great foundation to build on once I get settled in and set up my sewing area. Until then, I’ll just be wearing classic, well-fitting pieces, which actually follows the elegance, understatement and minimalism that is French Chic. I could experiment with a cross between Coco Chanel, Brazilian spice, and modernism. Mmm, food for thought!
I’m still waiting on our camera, so when I get photos I’ll have a lot of catching up to do, patterns to review, etc., but until then “I’ll be sewing up a storm” as my mother would say.