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A Tale of Two Stitches

June 24, 2013

Even though I’ve been researching for my Silhouette Project, I’ve been sewing my Wool Jacket. I have new calluses on my fingers from all the hand stitching!

catchstitching halfwayNow this is the first project where I’ve used catchstitiching, and it is so effective!  As you can see here, my side seam stands up even after pressing thanks to the firm underlining/interlining.

catchstitching doneAll those naughty seam allowances were tamed by the stitching.  I am very pleased to be adding this stitch to my toolkit. (I learned this stitch from the Couture Dress class on Craftsy, but I’m sure there are plenty of others tutorials out there. Vogue’s Sewing Handbook also has it.)

Then I turned to the lapels. Note: Whenever Burda’s directions say:

Build a little extra fullness into x

they are asking you to padstitch. In this jacket’s instructions, and apparently in all tailored notched collars as far as my research uncovered, they ask you to build a little extra fullness into the corners of the lapel facing and the top collar.

lumpy lapel 1Again, this is my first time doing this stitch. This is a gigantic failure that even ironing couldn’t save. I followed a tutorial online that said rows should be 1/2″ apart, which turned out way too big. I also had trouble maintaining even tension, so some areas ridge sharply while others lay flat. The tutorial also mentioned that “some stitches” might show on the outside, but not to worry because it wouldn’t be a big deal. LIARS! Every stitch showed and really stood out because the rows were so wide. I also tried ‘the twill tape on the roll line” step, using grograin ribbon instead, but that turned out too wide.

Needless to say, I put this thing away and worked on a muslin for my party dress (coming soon). I also searched for a better padstitching tutorial. At the moment this entire mess has been undone, and I plan to start over soon. I really hope I finish this before the end of winter. It has taken more time than I anticipated.

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10 Comments leave one →
  1. June 24, 2013 1:51 pm

    I know a lot of sites/books/sewistas use machine pad stitching, but the only way to get that particular roll of the collar with invisible stitched is by hand! It’s not that difficult, and you’ll be waaaay happier with the results!

    • June 25, 2013 12:13 pm

      I have restarted and the new stitches don’t show on the fashion fabric! I can definitely see the appeal of hand tailoring. It is so pretty! I can also see why manufacturers can’t use it because its so time consuming. My lapel is rolling much better now.

  2. mrsmole permalink
    June 24, 2013 2:20 pm

    All your stitches look connected but they should look separate. Keep looking for a better sample and see if you can make them more dainty and less showy on the right side. Kenneth King always has some great examples of alternative sewing on jackets to get the same results…I’ll dig through my stuff to see if I have some photos for you.

  3. June 25, 2013 8:28 pm

    Wow, it looks very complex! I have no suggestions as I’ve not sewn a tailored jacket yet. But, good luck and can’t wait to see the end result.

    • June 26, 2013 12:22 pm

      Thanks! I have definitely been slowed down by how much “learning as I go” I’ve had to do! I look forward to seeing the end result too!

  4. June 26, 2013 1:30 am

    I have chosen your blog for a sweet blogger award


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