I have finally finished my jacket muslin (Burda 11-2011-15)!
My husband’s boss asked him to work on a vacation house, so this was the only project I packed so I could focus! We were there for two weeks, and I spent all my sewing time working on it. I nailed the shoulders, but had to add in more at the sleeve cap. I also decided not to add the shoulder pads. I felt like a footballer!
Here is some fun info that I learned along the way. In my jacket class, we fitted the traditional one piece sleeve, which is pretty basic among sewing patterns. Not so with Burda. Many times I have seen the two piece sleeve, so I did a little research on them. What does the extra piece do?
“Two Piece Sleeve- A sleeve cut in two pieces, inner and outer, to allow the sleeve to take a slight “L” shape to accommodate the natural bend at the elbow without wrinkling; used in tailored garments.” courtesy of Wikipedia.
I can concur, these sleeves curve forward slightly. What Wikipedia doesn’t mention is what a PITA sewing up these sleeves are! It took 3 different attempts to install my muslin sleeves! First, I had a horrible time lining them up and here’s why.
The underarm seam and the side seam don’t line up! Shocking! I have always made the one-piece kind so this really threw me off. After returning to the paper pattern and the magazine diagrams (and a lot of head scratching) it clicked and I was able to get them in properly. The second sleeve was a problem too because somehow in my “marker” process, I made both sleeves left sleeves. Oops! Needless to say I had to mark my pattern pieces more carefully once I realized that my minimalistic ways weren’t keeping all this stuff straight. I had no idea these sleeves would be such a challenge.
After all our recent discussions over my back waist length, I came up with this trick. I put a safety pin at the back waist so I could “feel” where it landed without trying to contort in front of a mirror. It worked fairly well I think and I shortened the back length. Of course, I won’t know for sure until I make the next one.
Here’s the biggest change, the front. First I had to move the bust apex down (#1-remember that was a huge question mark from before?). The bust dart top ended slightly above the bust apex, and according to my research the dart should “release the fullness” about an inch below the bust apex. So I moved it down with the slash and spread method. I also needed more room! While the fronts did overlap when I first tried this on, it was a tight blazer like fit that was near bursting. This is supposed to be a coat, and I hate when buttons pull to within an inch of their life. I started on the muslin adding at the side seams, but as you can see from the top picture, I had to insert a bit more. Interestingly, when I slashed and moved the bust apex, it added what I needed to the bust-line without needing to change the side seam (#2). That was nice, but the spread coming off of that, put about 6″ extra at the hemline (12″ total addition). Yikes! Therefore I slashed the horizontal portion of the dart (#3) to keep the lower portion of the pattern from over-spreading.
Here’s a preview of my coat. Yes, I am not doing another muslin, though I know I should with all these changes. I didn’t take any extra muslin fabric on our trip so I’m just going for it. I also double checked every piece to make sure I had a left and a right one! I have a 32″ piece left because this jacket only took 2 yds and 4″ even though the pattern calls for 3 yds. I’m worried I’ve missed something, but I’ve gone through the magazine with a magnifying glass and I have everything.
At this point I have basted my underlining to all my wool pieces. I only underlined all the body pieces and only the collar pieces that required interfacing. I think that’s right. I am using a rayon/poly medium weight interlining as my underlining; because, after I unfolded the wool, I discovered it had a loose weave and soft drape. I’m thinking this interlining will give it the strength for its tailored shape and warmth for winter. I have cheap black lining fabric too, but now that I have felt (and purchased) beautiful high quality linings from Waetchers last summer, I want to stomp my feet like a 2 year old and cry. As much as I’ve stared at the lining it hasn’t transformed and all my nice linings are color matched to silk fabrics I bought, so I’m putting on my big girl pants and dealing.
Final tip: here’s how I got this project to travel- one of those deflating zip top bags. Normally they require vacuums but I found these that just require you to open a valve and sit on them to get the air out. They are designed for travelers to get more things in their suitcases. Ingenius!