Wool Jacket Muslin Part 1

For my jacket posts, I’m going to include my process along with tips from my jacket class last summer. As seen in my previous post, I am clearly not an expert. I am hoping for feedback, shared experiences, tips and tricks, and questions/comments. These are for me to learn and share, so feel free to participate! Here we go:

I left off with the bust apex confusion. Before cutting the muslin, I double checked the patterns to the magazine diagrams to make sure I marked everything. I missed a few things because this jacket is the “red line” pattern and there was a big red shaded pattern piece printed in the middle of the pattern sheet. Great thinking Burda.

cutting muslin no no

When I placed the patterns on the muslin I discovered two problems. First my “great idea” of using 118″ wide quilting muslin backfired because it was hard to layout on the cramped floor and as I moved around the layers shifted. I had to check for grain and reposition the fabric several times even after the first pattern piece was pined. This was a failed experiment. I also caught that I forgot to do my width adjustment on the front shoulder seam. That was a quick fix, and I’m glad I hadn’t done all the bust adjustments or it would have skewed them because I had to take out 3/4″ from each shoulder and redraw the shoulder slope.

marking in two steps AHere’s a trick we played with in our jacket class. The left is marked with the tracing wheel/wax paper and the right with marker, though I have no idea why the color looks so weird in this photo. Our class supply list included a pack of multi-colored Sharpies for Cynthia’s color system. Each round of fitting changes gets a different color so as we made changes, we didn’t lose our place. She also used the Sharpies to mark fit problems on the muslin. Some of us took it a step further and marked everything with the Sharpies so it was easier to see and stitch.  Now I use washable kid’s markers because I saw the bleed through marks all over the class tables and onto one woman’s bra. I don’t want to deal with that. I am wondering if the shop owner replaced the Sharpies with a different brand on the next class’ supply list.  Here’s my final front pieces ready for sewing.

front pieces

I am really glad I learned this because it makes stitching more accurate and seeing the waistline and center lines while fitting in the mirror easier. When I pack this muslin up for our Easter vacation trip to Ipatinga, the color will still be there and I can jump right in where I left off. We are visiting family in Ipatinga (mountainous region north of Rio) and it will be cold (Fall/rainy season has hit Rio too), but I know I won’t have this jacket done in two days. At least I have my new Laura jacket!

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4 thoughts on “Wool Jacket Muslin Part 1

  1. Looks like a LOT OF WORK and I’m supposed to be doing this for two different jacket patterns that are in queue! Which Burda pattern are you using again? I forget!

  2. Good start! Love how you’re explaining each step and its +’s and -‘s. It’s fascinating that you are in the Southern Hemisphere and going into Fall, while the States are trying so hard to find Spring.

    1. Thank you! I’m glad it was clear.
      lol it still confuses me sometimes when I see my aunt’s pictures of snow and we just got home from a beach day! I miss cold Christmas though.

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