Fitting Pants: a new trick!

So in an effort to improve my fitting skills, I have been reading up on how to fit pants. Not the easiest reading, but I came across a tip using a carpenter’s flexi-ruler. So I decided to test drive it.

Step 1: Measure a crotch the already fits. I used a pair of Cato 16 women’s petite jeans as my basis even though they are a little loose. The crotch seam already fits pretty well.

Immediately I can see the shape of the crotch seam and know the measurement of my front crotch and the back crotch seam.

Step 2:  Measure the pattern pieces without seam allowance, which is easy peasy with Burda Mag patterns. Here is Burda Plus 11-2012-136.

I can immediately see that there is a butt problem. The front measurement matches my jeans, but the butt is an inch short and I can see that I need to put that extra length under the butt, right? How cool is that!

Now for fun, I pulled out my WIP Simplicity 2373 khaki’s that I did my old way, which was cutting them out based on pattern measurements and pinching out all the extra, which in this case was inches around the waist, deepening the darts, the taking a little out of the CB. Here it is after all that crazy fitting waiting for the waistband:

It is about the same (in reverse) about 1/4″ off. It would have been so much easier to use the flexi-ruler on the pattern paper and save myself some serious time.

So where to add the crucial inch? According to Sandra Betzina you can add up to 3/4″ under the butt. After that you need to add it in about 5″ below the waist, using the slash and spread method.

Now I looked at my remake and I realized that it doesn’t match. After some thinking, I realized my problem. The front is 9.5 inches which matches the jeans finished length of 9″, plus SA which I don’t need right now because its a Burda Mag pattern. The jeans back is 15.5″ so the total is 25″. I need to move 1/2″ from the front to the back. Referring back to Sandra’s pants instructions, I need to fold out 1/2″ 5″ down from the CF and spread another 1/2″ in the back.

Here it is done to a total of 25″ which matches the jeans. However, it is less angled on the back. I’m hoping that it is just the difference between fabric and pattern. Any thoughts? Agree?

I like this ruler. I looked online and in the US you can get one on Amazon. I’m assuming they have them in hardware stores too. I think this particular tip came from Threads Mag, but I can’t remember because I read so many different pages. Next time I’ll take source notes. Feels like I’m back in school 🙂

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